The rain came lashing down on 45th street, an audible presence on the roof of the theater, especially during quiet scenes. It was my sixth and final show of the week, subbing on Broadway, and after two years you’d think I’d be used to being here. You’d be wrong, as every time I’m back feels like the first time; same worries (will I miss a cue? Are the dynamics right? Has anything changed since last time?), same wonder (I get to work with so many incredible people! On Broadway!)
I had the rare luxury of a place to stay in the city, thus sparing me the commute and allowing some free time for “Errands in Old NYC.” For all that the city has lost to developers, money, and greed, even in the 17 years I’ve known it (and I’ve only known it as a visitor, never a resident), it’s comforting to take a tour of what remains:
Veselka (est. 1954) for my pierogi fix. Gem Spa (1957, although it opened under another name in the ‘20s)- still the best egg cream around. Decibel (1993) - the gritty graffitied underground sake bar. Kalustyan’s (1944) to stock up on za’ataar and finely ground bulgar, and try spices you can’t find anywhere else, then over to Curry in a Hurry (1976) for a quick dinner. Yakub Shoe Repair (mid 1990s), Carmine Street Guitars (1990) - check out the documentary!, Nha Trang Vietnamese restaurant on Baxter St. (1992). Joe Coffee on Waverly in the Village (the original!), a relative newcomer from 2003, representing the vanguard of the artisanal coffee boom in NYC. Real deal bagels at Ess a Bagel (1976). Lupe's East LA Kitchen (mid '80s?). I usually hit Joe’s Pizza on Carmine Street (1975) and Quantum Leap vegetarian restaurant (1974), but missed those on this trip.
It may not ever be my lot to live in the City That Never Sleeps (which may be for the best as I like sleep quite a lot!), and the city itself may be a shadow of its former glory, but my, are those remnants still splendid...
“... while Mona Lisas and Mad Hatters, sons of bankers, sons of lawyers, turn around and say good morning to the night. For unless they see the sky- but they can’t and that is why they know not if it’s dark out or it’s light...” #nyc #oldnyc #nycbagels #broadway #thecitythatneversleeps #daisycuttermusic #eltonjohn